WAKING up in a Haider Ackermann dream must be a wonderful place to be – we stepped inside and caught a glimpse of it for the designer’s spring/summer 2015 collection.
It’s serene, and peaceful, controlled and light as air, which is exactly how the girls took to the catwalk this morning in a palette that wavered from white to pink to lilac but so gently that you would hardly tell.
Everything has a fluidity in the hands of Ackermann – the clothes appear in a perfect state of undress, belted as they are, slouched and ruched at the pocket or at the elbow. Here we got night dress styles – entirely in keeping with our dreamscape scenario – and dressing gown coats, gliding lace slips, plunge-front tuxedos, bare backs framed and exposed. Peplums were created through layers of ruffles that peaked out beneath his signature investment jackets – cinched and belted as always – and sheer chiffon sleeves slid off over hands for oversized, surreal effect.
This was one of Ackermann’s softest and most wistful collections yet but in that same breath he brought a shorter, younger silhouette and it was sharp through its focus, sexy in its subtlety.
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WELL, there can’t be many one-year-old babies with their very own front row seat at Paris Fashion Week. The current count tallies to one in fact, at Givenchy, where mademoiselle North West, dressed in a custom-made full-length Givenchy black sheer dress took her seat alongside parents, Kanye West and Kim Kardashian, dressed in a plunging, sheer black lace jumpsuit. It was a family affair with Kendall Jenner on the runway.
The family certainly looked the part as the show opened with a series of graphic, sexy black dresses with trussed up corseted bodices and lacy sheer skirts. It was hard-edged and yet… romantic.
It’s an odd parallel but part of Riccardo Tisci’s appeal is in his ability to meld those two disparate worlds so convincingly. These are dresses that are all-out fierce, a little bit slutty (further enhanced by the thigh-high boots they were partnered with) but all of that is counterbalanced by the divine craftsmanship at play. The lace here this evening was so fine it looked like it could have floated right off, up into there air were it not anchored with leather strips spliced into those pleats, or harnessed down with backless waistcoats crafted from stiffened leather with crocodile panels.
Pirate blouses flounced about like ship’s sales, while humbug black and white striped narrow-shouldered jackets festooned with corseted lacing kept the silhouette tight and lean. With legs clad in leather leggings or spray on jeans, the detail was all about up top.
The only sighting of colour amongst this entirely monochrome collection came in the shape of a fleshy pink leather dress, plunging, tight to the body with a pleated and ruffled skirt. Severe, and yet… oh so pretty.
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Had Erdem been leafing through the pages of Joseph Conrad’s A Heart of Darkness? The show set was a huge, imposing forest and underneath the verdant vines Erdem proved that when it comes to creating clothes that women long to wear, he’s anything but green.
Erdem has been riffing on the sweet spot between beauty and darkness for a few seasons now and for spring / summer 15 he found the balance. Floor length gowns were the form here, tiered, sheer, richly embroidered with botanics, with just a smattering of separates. A tweed sleeveless top was best, styled in a contemporary way with a delicate bag shaped like a book slung across the body. The amount of embroidery was vast and any hint of OTT pomp was diluted with boyish flat shoes. The leaf and branch stitch work sat against windows of period conservatories stitched on to dresses, that and the high Victorian collars brought a classic, historic appeal to a collection that felt very right for now.
To shop Erdem visit: www.erdem.com or click below to shop the beautiful florals of Spring/Summer 2015 Erdem:
THE winning ideas here were to be found in Clare Waight Keller’s series of butter soft suede shorts and shirt combos (in a perfect shade of toffee) and elsewhere in her offering of indigo denim looks, worked into cropped straight-leg jeans, minis, and maxi skirts with cargo pockets. It lent an urban, utilitarian edge to this house and ticked many of the emerging spring trends.
But for better or worse, bohemia is never far from the mood board. Those balloon sleeve blouses, breezy kaftans and romantic cheesecloth dresses suspended from camisole straps and edged in pretty crochet will no doubt appeal to Ibiza types, while full-length goddess gowns anchored with empire line metal work will be just the ticket for a summer wedding.
Today, Clare Waight Keller dedicated her collection to Chloe’s founding designer, Gaby Aghion, who sadly passed away yesterday at her home in Paris age 93.
To shop more Chloe visit: www.chloe.com or click below to shop Spring/Summer 2015 Chloe look: