Spring/Summer 2015 Stella McCartney

HERE’S one for the shopping list: if you don’t buy anything else all spring – buy knitwear. Knitwear was woven in organic yarn – what else? – and crafted into slouchy asymmetric silhouettes while a series of romantic silk dresses jigsaw-ed together from clashing patterns and prints tapped into Stella’s soft side.

A faded plaid print on fluttering silk was wishy-washy in the line-up but those silk trench coats were winners, so too her drawstring parachute silk parkas, billowing behind.

It may sound like an odd observation but Stella McCartney makes clothes that are women-friendly. There is no crash diet to get on to before slipping into one of her baggy jumpsuits; nothing to consider when it comes to deciding what to throw on under one of her silk trench coats – any dress will do, or a favourite pair of jeans and a T-shirt. For that reason her clothes can be empowering. Nothing is too complicated, there’s nothing to get your head around.

Sometimes that can translate into a collection that flatlines: this offering wasn’t perhaps bursting at the seams with zingy new ideas but it didn’t have to. Stella knows her woman and what she wants to wear come summer: she wants to look pretty and a little bit cool, and she’ll find that here.

Click below and shop the latest Stella McCartney Spring/Summer 2015 slouchy, soft and silky designs:
 

 

 


Spring/Summer 2015 Rochas

IT’S two seasons in for Alessandra Dell’Acqua at Rochas – the No 21 designer replaced Marco Zanini at the end of last year and made his debut for the house last February and cooked up a resort collection in between.

At No 21, Dell’ Acqua is known for his ability to join the dots between girl-boy dressing and we saw an offshoot of that this afternoon – his weapon of choice being a utility belt to add an industrial-futuristic feel to typically beautiful and fragile Rochas looks that under Zanini’s tenure had simply just been about the frou. Whether wearing your belt up high around your bust over a bejewelled black evening coat or jacket (or ball gown) will catch on in the real world is a different story, but here it helped to bring a modern plot to the house.

But there was plenty of lace and grace to be found too: the show notes cited sentimental adjectives – “virginal shyness”, “blooming sensuality”, “delicate”, “preciousness” – and they all performed.

Emphasis was on the back with high-neck collars unfolding into bows and sweeping down the back. Waists were dropped for fun and youthful appeal while Victoriana notes came in lace and high front-facing collars on long gowns.

“Naive” and “innocent” perfectly captured the sense of what was going on here, transparency was key. There was night-time allure about dressing gown dresses and coats, the girls ghost-like in their there-then-gone appearances.

A special mention has to go to the shoes which, as is fast becoming the Rochas staple, were tinsel-smothered at the front like a high-end feather duster and teamed with socks cut away at the heel.

But the main thing to take away was the utility belt. Will you?

Click below to shop more delicate, precious and feminine Rochas Spring/Summer 2015:

 


Spring/Summer 2015 Marni

The opening of Marni’s flower market – for one day only – at the Rontonda Della Besana. Set to be a riot of colour and creation, proceeds from the pop-up – which will sell fashion and homewares – will go towards supporting children’s organisations in keeping with the brand’s philanthropic approach to life.

Today on the catwalk, meanwhile, that approach translated as a collection injected with raw, traveller spirit and back-to-front appeal.

Raw because of the colours – to begin beige, oatmeal and stark white and later bright daffodil yellow and grass green, nothing was tempered here – and because of the asymmetric wrap skirts and kimono-style or patch-worked together dresses, the trailing laces from apron-like styles. There seemed to be a modesty.

But there was a crafted and artisanal element too – through mosaic and jet black floral embellishment on a canvas of clothes in biscuit tones. There was nothing prim or proper about these – as there shouldn’t be with Marni (only when it’s subverting the role of someone being prim and proper).

The back-to-front came through long-sleeved tops and outerwear layers that plunged at the back but were built up around the neck or whose front fastenings veered off, chicane-style, off round the shoulder. There was introverted appeal here ideal for those who like to play at being shy and which was perfect to go with the awkward oversized sleeves that hung well beneath wrists.

On feet there came a sandal-trainer hybrid, tapping right into where the shoe zeitgeist is at now and which are bound to be spotted on many a front row next season.

While initially devoid of florals – and surprisingly so given today’s special event – they came later and were more than made up for in those bright bright colours or were seen as tightly ruched blooms on a beautiful summer coat.

Click below to shop the bright, bold and beautiful colours of Marni’s Spring/Summer 2015 look:
 

 

 


Spring/Summer 2015 Issey Miyake

At the end of the Issey Miyake show, there was a rare fashion moment as the audience stomped and cheered for designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae to take one more bow. It’s been a while since Issey featured as a must-see on the crowded fashion calendar, but anyone who goes to these shows regularly knows they’ll witness a special fusion of creativity, craftsmanship, intelligence, and plain old jaw drop. Well, maybe the special effects aren’t always jaw-dropping, but they usually elicit a heartily spontaneous reaction, as happened today when a handful of models walked onto the catwalk with organic portfolios that they rapidly unfolded and converted into springy, concertina-pleated items of clothing resembling the fun technical world of origami. The helpful explanatory notes on each guest’s seat described a process of “hand-pleating on the curve.”

Today’s theme was Miyamae’s excuse for a collection that focused on organic shapes and patterns to mesmerizing effect. Graphically abstracted prints created an almost Art Deco sense of movement, which was in tune with developments elsewhere in fashion this season. In fact, the graphics and silhouettes were generally more…what’s the best word for this?…familiar than they sometimes are: Tailored jackets and coats, slim pants tucked into boots, and oversize blanket wraps provided a context for the marriage of artisan and machine that creates purest Miyake. The technique du jour was steam-stretching, in which computers program steam heat to shrink jacquard fabrics into three-dimensional grooves. That mechanical process yielded gorgeously organic fabrics, patterned like tree rings, which Miyamae cut into poetic shapes that shivered sensuously as the models walked.

A line from the show notes, presumably endorsed by Issey himself, best defined the overall uplift of the show: “Cloth harbours the power of life: wrap yourself in it and feel an instantaneous metamorphosis into pure joy at the wonder of living.” Translation: For God’s sake, if it feels good, do it.

Click below to shop more of Spring/Summer 2015 Issey Miyake and explore the brands organic, origami and mesmerizing designs: