Autumn/Winter 2014-15 Marni

Autumn/Winter 2014-15|November 9, 2014

THE Marni show was a blast of energy, texture and colour this morning; designer Consuelo Castiglioni proving once again that her label is one that shirks Milanese reputation and rules for true originality.

She began with coats of heavy wool and neoprene layers – fuchsia with navy or grey with green and tan stiff frills to the knee – in fact the coats today were among the loudest statements: in tufts of mulitcoloured fur; with full frock skirts in curly cream sheepskin or tailored in army green with cascades of feathers and rattling embellishment held to the front by a line of glittering jewels.

There were voluminous, sporty bomber jackets zipped on over matching skirts of green or grey, some with silver roughly sprayed across them, before the metallic moment took over by way of a silver leather parka with a huge sheepskin hood.

The Marni girl goes her own way and is bound to get noticed wherever that may be – her full parachute silk skirt zipped into a matching wool jacket with an emerald fur shrug overtaking her shoulders.

Hair matted into helmets over the crown before falling down the girls’ backs seemed to shout unconventional beauty, as if the Marni message is to encourage experimentation – there was a primitive nature to voluminous boiled wool tunics with matching trousers, hewn in painterly stripes of blush, yellow, green and black or mint, burgundy, tan and black, while nippy little corsets with stiff peplums added a feminine wile to strong layered looks that would take no prisoners.

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