Stella McCaretney opened her show this morning with a series of stretchy tube looks in striped and plaid jersey. They were sporty; some comprised of buttoned-up preppy polo shirts and maxi skirts and others took shape as racer-back dresses. In punchy hues of green, red and yellow they were a lively opener. Stella McCartney referred to them as a true celebration of summer, exuding a vivacious and liberated spirit.
The designer also offered up some very appealing raw indigo denim looks (rigid, non-stretch denim is the big news right now, and not just on the runways but spotted on show-goers too). She presented denim midi-skirts with side slits for ease of movement, drop-crotch wide-leg jeans and off-the-shoulder zipped up tops, all with contrast white stitching.
There were some tricky elements, specifically the zigzagging elliptical hemlines created from layering a plissé pleated top over a plissé pleated midi-skirt in contrast zingy colours, like black, orange, cobalt and acid yellow. Colours aside, unless you’re 5ft 10 and reed thin, most women might take an issue with a silhouette as challenging as this.
The thing about a Stella McCartney collection is that you can look at these clothes, pick them up in their entirety and slot them back into any spring/summer season, almost regardless of year. These clothes don’t have much correlation or context to what else is going on in fashion’s zeitgeist: Stella does Stella’s thing – here, a pretty summer dress with sporty mesh inserts, and oversize mannish tailoring comes as standard – but that isn’t necessarily a criticism, certainly not for the Stella customer who heads here with those wardrobe staples in mind.