And so to Peter Dundas and his final collection for Pucci. Since his appointment at the house in 2008, Dundas has energized the brand into a blazing, hyper-coloured fanfare of mega watt clothes for mega watt lifestyles. His unapologetic sense of glamour pitched at leggy starlets – many of them walking here this evening, from Eva Herzigova to his poster girls, Anja Rubik and Natasha Poly – has enlivened the scene no end.
This season, it was astrology and the powers the signs behold that triggered his creativity in what he called the Zodiac collection. Symbols for Aries, Libra, Sagittarius and Scorpio were embroidered in gold and scattered over velvet blazers, dramatic capes and hot pants. For his opening looks, he reprised Emilio Pucci’s black and white prints from the late Fifties and rendered them in swirling patterns created with monochrome micro sequins – with embroidered thigh high boots to match, naturally. Intarsia fox furs, flared trousers in crushed velvet, even, a pearl-fringed flapper dress was thrown into the hedonistic mix – it was everything that we’ve come to expect of a Pucci collection under Dundas’s direction – and then some.
He took his bow surrounded by his design team who emerged from backstage to warmly applaud him. Perhaps he won’t disappear from horizons for long: when it comes to what’s written in his own stars, if the rumors play into his horoscope he’s headed to Roberto Cavalli – which, sounds a lot like the very definition of the stars aligning.
Some things are made to go together; gin and tonic, strawberries and cream, salt and vinegar, say, so too Anthony Vaccarello and Versace. He – the master of the slit and slashed minidress and pioneer of all-out sex appeal often delivered on leggy best friend, Anja Rubik; and Versus, the sidekick of Versace, the Italian house that practically invented sex – are a match made in heaven.
Half of the battle of a house producing a winning collection is in the hiring of a designer who just “gets it” and the hiring of the Belgian (of Italian descent) here is not much short of genius. Bravo to whoever cooked up that contract. One can only imagine the fun Vaccarello must have had mining the archives. It must have felt like all his birthdays and Christmases had come at once. Gold! Medusa heads! Bondage strapping! Safety pin dresses! Yes! Yes! Yes! Yes!
All of that was whipped up tonight (even, including BFF Rubik). There were so many brilliant looks here today and here’s the crux of it, and really, where others before him have perhaps failed; he kept it simple. Firstly, it was almost all black with gold accents, well, why over-complicate matters when that will do just nicely? It wasn’t all thigh skimming miniskirts, there were some great low-slung tailored trousers partnered up with bondage-backed bodysuits boasting gold chokers as halter necks, as delicate as fine jewellery, and elsewhere, unbuttoned black silk shirts (sometimes, combining the two into a fierce jumpsuit). He rendered the medusa head into super desirable belts, and re-proposed the safety pin dress into a neat proposition for now.
And even better news: it’s all available to buy online now. One question, what are you still doing reading this?