As Nicky Zimmermann noted backstage before her Spring show, some clothes you can “read” well enough hanging on a rack. These were not those clothes. Movement was paramount to Zimmermann’s pieces this season (her fourth since she started showing in New York), and delicate shapes reigned. They came in printed silks and wisteria- and peach-colored lace, and wafted out from under pin-striped utilitarian vests. Pitting masculine against feminine is familiar territory for Zimmermann, and here she teamed her cascading gowns with cargo pockets, and sent out suiting in icy blue sharkskin (a standout).
The designer had been looking at a dreamy 1970 tarot deck by illustrator David Palladini, but was wary of doing something that felt too literally vintage-derived. And so came techier touches, like a scuba tee bearing one of Palladini’s illustrations, and asymmetrical, tiered, or pleated skirts. But overall the message felt a little unclear, the punch of any one piece diluted slightly by the host of textures, colors, fabrics, and ideas that bookended it.
it’s sometimes easy to forget even the first letter of your name. But now that Mary Katrantzou has partnered with Matchesfashion.com to launch an exclusive collection of A to Z totes, the next time you’re feeling forgetful you can simply glance down at your bag.
Not only is there every colour in the rainbow in the line, there’s every initial from A to Z on the bags.
MatchesFashion.com’s buying director Natalie Kingham says of working with Mary, “We have a very close relationship with her and wanted to partner on a special project for a while now. Our clients love it when we collaborate on something that reflects the bands’ DNA yet is exclusive. These limited totes capture what is so brilliant about Mary — her fantastical imagination, and her sense of practicality.”
You pretty much put the digital print on the map. How do you keep reinventing it?
Mary Katrantzou: I think it’s important to innovate in what you do and I was proposing something new with print when I started. Print is so visual you can really do and say a lot with it, and it’s allowed me to create my own distinctive world. My collections are thematic and look at filtered beauty in design; I like to challenge myself to build a new perception that allows for a wider spectrum of qualities. Color, texture and shape are equally important to print. Fabrication and experimenting with different techniques of creating luxurious effects with fabric is pivotal in my work. Taking that step and pushing your work further is always a challenge. My work goes beyond print and is more about perception, so I always focus on the silhouette and innovation in fabrication
How did the totes come about?
The idea to do a collection based around the alphabet came form my resort 2015 collection, which was inspired by the alphabet. I thought it would be fun to come p with my own Mary’s A to Z, and create designers around each letter of the alphabet. Monogramming and personalization has become such a trend in recent seasons. MatchesFashion.com loved the idea, so we decided to partner with them to create our own lexical world.
This is a limited edition — make sure you don’t miss it!
After a long winter of minimalistic, dark and dull looks, it’s time to break out spring’s liveliest prospect: in-your-face bright, bold and beautiful prints. The look can go boho with a floral print or super-loud with fierce leopard spots. Mix and match or co-ordinate top to bottom, spring has sprung and anything can happen.
The opening of Marni’s flower market – for one day only – at the Rontonda Della Besana. Set to be a riot of colour and creation, proceeds from the pop-up – which will sell fashion and homewares – will go towards supporting children’s organisations in keeping with the brand’s philanthropic approach to life.
Today on the catwalk, meanwhile, that approach translated as a collection injected with raw, traveller spirit and back-to-front appeal.
Raw because of the colours – to begin beige, oatmeal and stark white and later bright daffodil yellow and grass green, nothing was tempered here – and because of the asymmetric wrap skirts and kimono-style or patch-worked together dresses, the trailing laces from apron-like styles. There seemed to be a modesty.
But there was a crafted and artisanal element too – through mosaic and jet black floral embellishment on a canvas of clothes in biscuit tones. There was nothing prim or proper about these – as there shouldn’t be with Marni (only when it’s subverting the role of someone being prim and proper).
The back-to-front came through long-sleeved tops and outerwear layers that plunged at the back but were built up around the neck or whose front fastenings veered off, chicane-style, off round the shoulder. There was introverted appeal here ideal for those who like to play at being shy and which was perfect to go with the awkward oversized sleeves that hung well beneath wrists.
On feet there came a sandal-trainer hybrid, tapping right into where the shoe zeitgeist is at now and which are bound to be spotted on many a front row next season.
While initially devoid of florals – and surprisingly so given today’s special event – they came later and were more than made up for in those bright bright colours or were seen as tightly ruched blooms on a beautiful summer coat.
Click below to shop the bright, bold and beautiful colours of Marni’s Spring/Summer 2015 look: