Spring/Summer 2016 Marni

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Marni lightened and brightened up the morning for a collection that was laden with Lego colour and eveningwear elegance when it came to layering that twisted and tucked, pinched and folded into place.

It was sportier, and felt like a fresh burst of energy from¬†Consuelo Castiglioni¬†– white, daffodil yellow and the richest of jewel green to incarnate a wardrobe full of wide-leg trousers (a continuation from last season), split tunics and layered dresses and tabard styles. Just as we’ve come to expect and love from the brand, you never quite know where one garment begins and the other ends – here it was a game of dress up with long sleeves splaying out over fingers, sequins jangling beneath asymmetric hems and leaf prints that danced on shoulders in yet more sequins before making a bold impact as print in yellow and green across a mid-length dress. Sculpted graphics did the same and echoed the installation surrounds of the catwalk. That favourite T-shirt-beneath-dress combination factored in a lot here – but upgraded by Marni’s signature complication.IMG_4521

But it’s never just the clothes to contemplate with Marni – you’re looking at those accessories just as much, because they are key in defining and describing the Marni woman. They are so often the dot on the “i” and the cross on the “t”, as it were. Those same leaves hung from lobes in gold, wrists were weighted down by angular bangles and bags were long, width-wise, in metallic and scrunched like a sandwich bag or came as luxe shoppers. And the way to wear your hair is in minimalist bunchies.

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Spring/Summer 2015 Marni

The opening of Marni’s flower market – for one day only – at the Rontonda Della Besana. Set to be a riot of colour and creation, proceeds from the pop-up – which will sell fashion and homewares – will go towards supporting children’s organisations in keeping with the brand’s philanthropic approach to life.

Today on the catwalk, meanwhile, that approach translated as a collection injected with raw, traveller spirit and back-to-front appeal.

Raw because of the colours – to begin beige, oatmeal and stark white and later bright daffodil yellow and grass green, nothing was tempered here – and because of the asymmetric wrap skirts and kimono-style or patch-worked together dresses, the trailing laces from apron-like styles. There seemed to be a modesty.

But there was a crafted and artisanal element too – through mosaic and jet black floral embellishment on a canvas of clothes in biscuit tones. There was nothing prim or proper about these – as there shouldn’t be with Marni (only when it’s subverting the role of someone being prim and proper).

The back-to-front came through long-sleeved tops and outerwear layers that plunged at the back but were built up around the neck or whose front fastenings veered off, chicane-style, off round the shoulder. There was introverted appeal here ideal for those who like to play at being shy and which was perfect to go with the awkward oversized sleeves that hung well beneath wrists.

On feet there came a sandal-trainer hybrid, tapping right into where the shoe zeitgeist is at now and which are bound to be spotted on many a front row next season.

While initially devoid of florals – and surprisingly so given today’s special event – they came later and were more than made up for in those bright bright colours or were seen as tightly ruched blooms on a beautiful summer coat.

Click below to shop the bright, bold and beautiful colours of Marni’s Spring/Summer 2015 look: