Spring/Summer 2016 Proenza Schouler

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Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez remain in pole position as New York fashion’s golden boys.  In a city where often the strength of a collection is in its wearable desirability, Proenza Schouler are relied upon to provide a dash of excitement, the fizz of the new.

And they did not let their fans down this season. Seated on white foam benches in disjointed curves the audience were treated to a fast-paced show of imaginative deconstruction. The majority of the looks came in black or white or a mixture of both accessorised by dangling metal leaf earrings and octagonal pillar heeled shoes.

Working primarily in stiff cotton jacquard and softer crepe viscose the longer length waistcoats and dresses were often cut away dramatically at the shoulder and sometimes the waist. This was balanced by higher necklines and loose pants to prevent any suggestion of the skin on display being overtly sexy.

Anyone looking for a plain jacket, skirt it simple coat will have looked in vain but it is Proenza’s strength that although these show pieces appeared relatively unwearable they also worked as a convincing whole. At the end a collection of beautiful feather-linked dresses appeared along with woven skirts laced with heavy beads adding an exoticism to the cleverness.

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2015 CFDA Awards | 04/06/2015

  Womenswear Designer of the Year nominees:
Joseph Altuzarra, Altuzarra
Marc Jacobs
Michael Kors
Jack McCollough & Lazaro Hernandez, Proenza Schouler
WINNER: Mary-Kate Olsen & Ashley Olsen, The Row

Menswear Designer of the Year nominees:
Thom Browne
Tim Coppens
WINNER: Tom Ford
Dao-Yi Chow & Maxwell Osborne, Public School
Marcus Wainwright & David Neville, Rag & Bone

Accessories Designer of the Year nominees:
Alexander Wang
WINNER: Tabitha Simmons
Mary-Kate Olsen & Ashley Olsen, The Row
Jack McCollough & Lazaro Hernandez, Proenza Schouler
Irene Neuwirth 

Swarovski Award for Womenswear nominees:
WINNER: Rosie Assoulin
Dao-Yi Chow & Maxwell Osborne, Public School
Ryan Roche

Swarovski Award for Menswear nominees:
WINNER: Shayne Oliver, Hood by Air
Alex Orley, Matthew Orley & Samantha Orley, Orley
Shimon Ovadia & Ariel Ovadia, Ovadia & Sons

Swarovski Award for Accessory Design nominees:
Paul Andrew
Eva Zuckerman, Eva Fehren
WINNER: Rachel Mansur & Floriana Gavriel, Mansur Gavriel

Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award: Betsey Johnson

International Award: Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli for Valentino

The Founder’s Award in Honor of Eleanor Lambert: Mickey Drexler

The Media Award in Honor of Eugenia Sheppard: Instagram

Fashion Icon Award: Pharrell Williams

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It may have been a long night, but the CFDA Fashion Awards, held as usual at Lincoln Center’s Alice Tully Hall, weren’t boring. James Corden, of The Late Late Show fame and the evening’s first-time host, started things off by lampooning the industry to the tune of “to dream ‘The Impossible Dream,’” and got progressively more fearless as his bit went on, sticking it to Terry Richardson, who wasn’t in the audience to defend himself, and Kanye West, who was. “Kim and Kanye are both presenting this evening,” Corden said. “I should warn you that Kanye is going to interrupt both speeches to say that Beyoncé should have won them.”

West made no interruptions, but he did deliver one of his trademark soliloquies when it came time to introduce this year’s Fashion Icon, Pharrell Williams, near the end of the ceremony. “What’s up, CFDA? You know how [President] Obama brought out the angrier version of himself? I’m sort of like the angrier version of Pharrell.” After rapping the opening lines of “New Slaves,” he took the crowd to task for “completely destroying” his first collection, which, he reminded the audience, sold out—$6,000 shoes included. When he eventually did wind around to the subject of Williams, West said, “there would be no me, no A$AP [Rocky], without Pharrell being the nicer version of Obama.” Williams, displaying his own trademark niceness, had kind words for everyone from his jeweler Lorraine Schwartz to “the genius” Rei Kawakubo.

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In between, Chelsea Clinton took to the stage for a remembrance of Oscar de la Renta; the Italian actress Valeria Golino paid tribute to the Italian designers and International Award winners Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli of Valentino; and Kelly Osbourne made an endearing speech about Betsey Johnson, the evening’s Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award winner. Yes, Johnson is 72 (she’s got two years on J.Crew’s Mickey Drexler, who picked up the Founder’s Award). And yes, she did do a cartwheel into a perfect split, jostling loose a few crystals from her bib necklace, before accepting her statuette.

To cap off the evening’s all-star lineup, The Row’s Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen accepted the Womenswear Designer of the Year prize, beating out Michael Kors, Marc Jacobs, the Proenza Schouler duo, and Joseph Altuzarra. It fact, it was a good night for women designers, celebrity and otherwise, with Tabitha Simmons winning the Accessories Designer of the Year Award, and Rosie Assoulin and Mansur Gavriel’s Rachel Mansur and Floriana Gavriel taking home the Swarovski prizes for womenswear and accessories, respectively. On the guys’ side of things, Swarovski winner Shayne Oliver of Hood by Air had almost as many letters stenciled on the back of his head—HBA—as he uttered words on stage. Tom Ford, who received the menswear award, and is a little more practiced at these things, remembered his 15 minutes at this venue last year. “I’m so glad to know that there is life after the Lifetime Achievement Award.”

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Fringe For Fashion | 30/04/2015

Fringe

This spring, your wardrobe will be seriously lacking if you don’t invest in the style of the moment: fringe – for your body not for your hair. Wear it on your skirt, jacket, tops, bags or shoes every brand has interpreted this new style in their own way. From maxi skirts at Proenza Schouler to knee-high boots at Etro, this flirty trim added an element of surprise to even the most sophisticated shapes. As Gianni Versace once said, “Less is a bore,” so why not pile it on together?

Shop the look with my favourite fringes below.

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The Pre-Fall 2015 Trend Report

Pre-Fall is a season of consolidation, with such labels as Chloé, The Row, and Zero + Maria Cornejo doubling down on all sorts of ’70s tropes, from rock-star shearlings to tunic-and-trouser suits to baja shirts straight off the beach in Malibu. What it means for you: It’s time to invest in a flared skirt (floor grazing or cropped way above the ankle), and you might want to consider a long tube skirt as well. They looked directional over loose pants and pleated skirts at places like Rag & Bone and Proenza Schouler. Or you could go the other way entirely and opt for something thigh-high short. Tiny baby doll dresses à la J.W. Anderson and Calvin Klein Collection had a big moment, too.

The Drug Rug Deluex

The drug rug got a major upgrade this season, thanks to ponchos that were hipper than your average head shop find. Chloé‘s Clare Waight Keller distilled globe-trotting glamour with a fantastic tasseled number, but for those who prefer a poncho with a little more polish, look no further than Cédric Charlier.

 

  New Life For Leopard

Is it time to stow away the It girl faux-leopard coat? Just maybe. We were seeing spots in a whole new way at the Pre-Fall collections. Joseph Altuzarra whipped up a purple jacquard parka and matching pencil skirt, while Julie de Libran sent out a Parisian take on jungle print at Sonia Rykiel. Wild.

 

  Doll Parts

Would-be dolly birds, unite! Pre-Fall’s most darling indulgence came in the form of baby doll dresses. Whether printed (Valentino and J.W. Anderson’s floral numbers) or plain (Francisco Costa’s dreamy white knit), their thigh-grazing hemlines made certain that these frocks were anything but saccharine.

It’s The Fuzz

Designers cozied up to plush shearling pieces for Pre-Fall. Whether long and luxurious or shaggy and shorn, Mongolian lambskin took center stage in collections from Altuzarra to Burberry Prorsum.

 

 Night Time Is The Right Time

The best kind of evening look is an unexpected one. This season, that’s where Alexander Wang’s minimal elegance, Christopher Kane’s nouveau blooms, and Rachel Comey’s unfussy fringe all come in.